Wednesday, April 29, 2015

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Tuesday, April 28, 2015


Creating a Tropical Oasis in Your Own Backyard

Some days you just want to get away from it all, to relax in some tropical paradise- but daily life gets in the way. 
Imagine how it would feel to have your own private oasis- for just a few dollars? 
Start by choosing a suitable area in your yard.  Perhaps add a bamboo fence sold in rolls from local hardware stores or on line) and attach it to your existing fence or trees.  Add some beautiful Hibiscus, but make sure they are in a sunny spot.  Attach a wood trellis nearby, plant some Thunbergia vine in yellow or bright orange, providing a quick running flowering shade for you while you read. 
Mandevilla vine is also a great choice, which has large blooms in pink tones. 
Grab some sturdy pots large enough for combination plantings, add some Cordyline and Ti plants to your flowering groups. 
A little fountain in a bucket, a comfy reading chair, and at night, don't forget the Chinese lanterns and tiki torches.  And of course, your choice of beverage.

How to care for your Hibiscus:
Sold as a tropical plant ( does not tolerate freezing temperatures) Hibiscus are a great addition to most patio or pool sides.  We normally don't recommend planting them in the ground here in Pennsylvania, as you might wish to bring it inside once the fall arrives as a houseplant. 
In any case, they do need lots of sun.  They also need lots of water.  Our Hibiscus are grown in black growers pots, and could use a larger size container once you bring it home.  We also provide free repotting , a nice service as we provide the soil and labor- all you need to do is buy the plant and the pot!  Although Hibiscus need to be kept fairly moist, the soil needs to be loose enough to be able to drain properly.  In other words, it can't sit in water in a pot that does not drain. 
Hibiscus have a voracious need for potassium and should be fed regularly through the growing season. They also like acid fertilizer. 
Trim off any branches that are growing too long if you want to maintain a certain shape.
Check the leaves periodically for signs of pest infestations (aphids, scale, mealybug) and treat accordingly if spotted. 
When bringing them indoors for fall, they need to be acclimated slowly.  Bringing them in at night and outside in the warmer days will help them adjust.  Check them for insects before bringing them inside your home, and put them  in the sunniest window you have.  You may need to add extra lighting on them.  Be aware that they will drop some leaves, so don't get alarmed. 
 How you watered it outside will change once it's indoors also.  Notice if the soil is drying faster in the dry heat of your home.  Or if you keep your house cooler in the winter, it wont dry out as fast.  Just observe.  Feed it just once in the fall and let it do it's thing all winter...which wont be much.  In the spring you can take it outdoors again on warm days and soon leave it outside in the summer.  Start feeding it again in the early spring, and regularly twice a month during the summer. 
Then again, Dan Schantz Greenhouse only sells the Hibiscus Bush in a near 3 gallon pot for about $14.  For that price, you can afford to toss it out after the fall.  We have Hibiscus trees in 2 sizes and braided ones also priced a little higher.

Mandevilla Vines are another favorite around here, they grow rather quickly and have bright pink or rose tone blooms on large shiny green leaves.  The care for them is about the same as a Hibiscus, only they grow up a trellis - a little trickier when bringing it indoors for the winter.  Simply prune it down to about 1/2 the size and bring inside.  Sometimes are grown year around as a houseplant!  You'll find they require a little less water than the Hibiscus mostly because it needs less sun, and are adaptable to many outdoor locations.  Best to put them in sun to part shade as sun tends to burn the leaves. Truly a patio favorite- and a great Mother's Day gift.  Most sizes available. 

Fertilizer: What kind is best?

All fertilizer labels have three bold numbers. The first number is the amount of nitrogen (N), the second number is the amount of phosphate (P2O5) and the third number is the amount of potash (K2O). These three numbers represent the primary nutrients (nitrogen(N) - phosphorus(P) - potassium(K)
Ok.  So now what?
. These numbers represent the percentage (by weight) of the three major nutrients required for healthy plant growth, always in the same order: nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K). Each of these nutrients affects plant growth differently, and the formulation you select should depend on your specific gardening needs.

The First number on the label is Nitrogen. 
A good way to remember this and what it's for, is "what's the first thing you see on your plant?  Leaves.  Nitrogen will help the plant produce  chlorophyll, which makes the leaves a darker green color.  If you want a nice, fast growing healthy lawn with deep green leaves, get a fertilizer with a high Nitrogen number.  For example, 36-0-6.  You want to keep your healthy lawn growing more green leaves.  (never put lawn food on your garden or house plants if the Nitrogen number is higher than 20)
So... If you want more leaves, use higher Nitrogen. 

Next Number, please. 
Phosphate is always the middle number.  Always. Phosphorous aids in root development and increases flowering ability and bloom size. The fertilizer industry smartly markets high phosphorus fertilizer as “Bloom Booster.” High-phosphorous fertilizer should be used when plants are being established in your garden – when sowing a new lawn or planting a new tree.  It represents what the plant will produce.  Like Vegetables.  Flowers...and of course, what better way to get these things than good roots development?  Nice strong roots will ensure that your plant can support the healthy leaves, stems and blooms it needs.  (so are you asking yourself "why did the grass fertilizer they mentioned above in the Nitrogen section contain ZERO phosphorus?"  Great question.  Because grass is grown for it's leaves, with shallow roots.  You don't want it to go to seed, so you don't want a lot of phosphorus.  IF, however, you have poor, yellowing grass or you are having trouble with grubs (fertilizer is not an insecticide, just a cure for the damage left behind) etc.- put some higher phosphate fertilizer on your lawn. )

Last but not least.....
Potassium is healthy for everyone, including plants.  Potassium has many functions: It guards the plant against diseases and aids in drought protection and cold tolerance. It also serves a role in improving root development and helps in the process of photosynthesis. You might consider using a high-potassium fertilizer at the start of winter and summer to protect crops from temperature extremes or when insects and disease have caused damage to your plants. It also works right along with the nitrogen to help toughen the roots and foliage, which enhances your lawn’s ability to resist drought, wear and tear, plus diseases. Aids in helping the fruits to ripen. 

Fertilizer companies will add additional ingredients to make up the rest of the 100 percent in the analysis formula.  Once you find a perfect match for you and your plants, you both will be happy and enjoy the years to come. 

Acid Fertilizer
Azaleas, Roses, Rhododendrons, Blueberry, Hibiscus, Gardenias, Junipers and Evergreens are a few examples of plants that need acidic fertilizer.  Hollytone is one standby for acid loving plants that's been around for years- made mostly of chicken manure which is high in acidity.  but far less messy.   and other 
 "Eggshells are almost 100% calcium carbonate, one of the main ingredients in agricultural lime; vinegar has acetic acid & coffee not only lowers your soil pH ,it also enriches it with nitrogen,magnesium and potassium.
too much use of fertilizer can make soil too acidic so thee fertilizers should be used in a limit.

EPSOM SALT FERTILIZER
COFFEE GROUND FERTILIZER
EGG SHELL FERTILIZER
VINEGAR FERTILIZER
FISH TANK FERTILIZER

are some of the accidic fertilizers wich can be made in home with less cost for plants."
  I found this part on the web. 

So that's about it...oh, except for Organics and whether to use water soluble granulated, liquid, time release or plant spikes.
Here goes: this is from Wikipedia:
 Organic fertilizers are fertilizers derived from animal matter, human excreta or vegetable matter. (e.g. compost, manure).[1]  Naturally occurring organic fertilizers include animal wastes from meat processing, peat, manure, slurry, and guano.

Eewwwww.  That second one was a surprise.  Well not really.  Back in the early 80's I found this fertilizer called Milorganite. Made from the sewers of Milwaukee.  I think they still make it today. 
In any case, most fertilizers are  extracted from minerals (e.g., phosphate rock) or produced industrially (e.g., ammonia).
Mostly a matter of preference, although some delicate plants enjoy organic over strong industrially made fertilizers.  If you have a concern about your plant and what food to give it (African Violet, Orchid, Gloxinia etc.) then it's best to research prior to a new feeding.  When in doubt..check it out!
This also applies to what kind of application you wish to use.  Some plants fair better when using a slow or time release plant food.  Osmocote is a good one.  Some plants need food faster if they are looking a little pale- water soluble will get to the roots faster.  Sort of depends on what you need or how ambitious you are.  If you don't remember to feed them during the summer, then a granular is best I suppose.  Espoma, Happy Frog, Miracle gro- all good. 

We recommend feeding your plants and flowers regularly- and that depends on what method you choose.  Here are some exceptions to that rule:
NEVER FEED a seed. This means seed starting soil with plant food in it.
NEVER FEED a wilted plant.  Water it first and wait until fully hydrated- usually a few hours to a day.
NEVER FEED a sick plant - if the roots are overwatered, rotting or has signs of root maggots.  Clean up the root issue first, remove the rotted or infected roots carefully, try getting the soil to dry slowly, when new roots start to emerge, it's safe to feed.  But just a half strength dose. 
NEVER OVER FEED:  if one tablespoon per gallon is good, then 2 tablespoons per gallon would be GREAT, right? No.  Too much concentration of food at one time is not good.  It will burn your roots. 

More questions about food?  Drop us a line and we'll direct your question to one of our specialized growers. 
Happy Gardening!